The last time I was in York Harbor for a meal, it was in the middle of a nasty Northeast storm, late in October. As the storm grew, we fired up our tiny wood stove, set a pot full of chowder atop it and listened to the wind in the rigging. By the end of the day we counted ourselves to be very lucky to be in a safe haven in Maine with such fine food to buoy our spirit, "How could it get any better?" we wondered.

That, of course was before we discovered the Dockside Restaurant. "We love what we do here." Says restaurant owner/manager Phil Lusty, the second generation of the Lusty family to operate the restaurant on such a prime spot in the harbor. In fact, the location is more than advantageous-it's actually perfect for boaters. And the Lusty passion for producing fine meals is also top-drawer. But given the Dockside's history, this boating/eating ideal isn't surprising.

The restaurant and associated inn started out as a marina. In 1952 Davis Lusty Sr. purchased Harris Island, a seven-acre parcel that sits squarely in the mouth of York Harbor's entrance channel. Connected to the mainland by a causeway, the island included a 19th-century house in poor repair and enough deep-water frontage to berth scores of yachts in the secure, fast-running waters of the York River.

After a few years of dock and service building construction, the marina became a big success, particularly for boats headed for the more famous Maine cruising grounds farther east. York Harbor is about a one day sail from Cape Ann and many boat owners appreciated the millpond-quiet harbor about midway between Massachsetts waters and the famous bays-Casco, Muscongus, Penobscot, and so on-of coastal Maine. Trouble was, when they got to York, they were hungry, looking for showers and often intent on joining up with friends. At the time, meeting some of those needs required a hike into town. So, David Lust figured he'd save his customers the trouble and have both a restaurant and accommodations right next to the marina.

Today, the Dockside Restaurant is the 90-seat centerpiece of the operation. With the docks being run by the nearby York Harbor Marine, Phil Lusty is able to concentrate on the meals and the ambience that have earned the restaurant a four-star rating from the local daily newspaper and an "Editors Choice" award from Yankee Magazine. As patrons are ushered into the main dining room, it soon becomes clear why the dockside is worthy of these accolades.

The dining room is designed with water views in mind. Every table in the white walled, multi windowed restaurant has a view of the water-some more than others. Although we dined on a Friday night, my wife and I, and another couple were quickly seated at a table that not only featured a view of the boats coming and going in the harbors main channel, but also included a view of Boon Island Light in the distance, winking at us throughout the meal. Only on a boat would you get a better view. In the warm season, dining on a near-by screened in porch is also available. This ambiance encouraged us to relax and enjoy supper at a leisurely pace.

Although our waitress was new to the Dockside and the restaurant trade, she immediately picked up on our pace and adjusted her efforts accordingly. Unwisely, we all ordered appetizers-which was only unwise because of the size of the portions. In particular, the steamed mussels in white wine and garlic butter sauce were a meal in themselves.

A bowl of one of the best New England seafood chowder I've ever had was a similar challenge. Ditto for the lobster and shrimp stuffed portabello mushroom. Add to it all, hot freshly baked bread and the meal could have been over before it started. But we were tough sailors and willing to brave some enticing entrees, too.

Unquestionably, the house specialty of roast stuffed duckling was a big hit. It was tender without a hint of extraneous grease. The stuffing was a hearty and old-fashioned touch of upscale Thanksgiving, with hints of orange and sherry sauce, plus some pecans here and there. Down East tenderloin topped with lobster, crab meat and b?arnaise sauce was also well received. And the tournedos Madeira with shallots and mushrooms gave new meaning to the word beef tenderloin.

Alas, with all that great food, dessert seemed out of the question-until blueberry pie was mentioned. We all agreed we could manage a bit of blueberry pie a la mode. Thus, even with four critics on the same dish, the generously berried pastry came through with flying colors-mostly shades of blue to be specific. After dinner, a stroll out to the gazebo on the seaward point of Harris Island seemed appropriate. With scads of lilacs in bloom and the wind absent, the pleasant evening made us speculate about how much it might cost to stay at the nearby inn. ($100-$215/night) and continue eating at the Dockside for a few days. Such a plan, we concluded, might be a good way to remedy a lightly ballasted boat.